Most waterfalls have a river above them. Hraunfossar does not.
Stand on the viewing platform and you see a long dark wall of lava with trees growing on top. Out of the rock itself, from dozens of cracks and gaps, comes water. It pours in white threads and little curtains straight into the milky blue Hvítá, as if the lava field were quietly leaking.
That strange sight is the reason Hraunfossar, with its neighbour Barnafoss, has become one of the highlights of West Iceland. It sits on the so-called Silver Circle, about two hours from Reykjavík, and in summer you can reach it straight from the Golden Circle over the Kaldidalur road.
What Is Hraunfossar?
Hraunfossar is a series of waterfalls about 900 metres long, where groundwater flows out of the Hallmundarhraun lava field and tumbles into the Hvítá river in Borgarfjörður, West Iceland. The name means "lava falls", and instead of a single drop, the water seeps through porous lava and emerges along the riverbank in hundreds of small streams.
The falls emerging along the edge of the lava field, with the river running fast below.
Hraunfossar and Barnafoss are protected together as a natural monument, designated in 1987. The Environment Agency of Iceland's page on Hraunfossar lists the reserve at about 36 hectares and asks visitors to keep to the marked paths.
How the Lava Falls Formed
The lava that creates Hraunfossar flowed from a volcano beneath the Langjökull ice cap, more than a thousand years ago. As the lava cooled, it left a thick porous layer full of cracks and tubes on top of older and denser rock.
Meltwater from the glaciers soaks into the lava field and travels underground until it reaches the denser layer below. Where the Hvítá river has cut a channel along the edge of the lava, that water finally escapes, which is why the falls appear in a long line along the bank.
The long line of cascades along the riverbank, each one fed by water filtering through the lava field.
The water is cold, clear and steady all year, because it comes from underground rather than straight off a glacier. That is also why the falls keep running through the winter, even when snow covers the lava above.
Barnafoss and Its Legend
Just upstream from Hraunfossar, the Hvítá narrows and races through a twisting gorge of black lava. This is Barnafoss, "the children's waterfall", a short stretch of white water that is completely different in mood from the gentle falls below.
The Hvítá forcing its way through the narrow lava gorge at Barnafoss.
Its name comes from a local legend.
Two boys from the nearby farm of Hraunsás were left at home while the rest of the household went to church. Bored, they followed and took a shortcut across a natural stone arch over the gorge. Halfway over they became dizzy, fell and drowned.
Their grieving mother is said to have cursed the arch so that nobody would cross it again without drowning, and soon afterwards an earthquake brought it down. Whatever the truth, the arch is long gone, and today you watch the water from a footbridge and viewing points above the gorge.
How to Get to Hraunfossar
Hraunfossar lies in the upper Borgarfjörður valley, a short drive from the village of Reykholt and the Húsafell area. From Reykjavík, the usual route runs north on Route 1 through the Hvalfjörður tunnel towards Borgarnes and then inland on paved roads. The drive takes around two hours.
There is a car park beside the falls, with a café and toilets, and short paved paths lead to several viewing platforms over Hraunfossar and Barnafoss. Allow 30 to 45 minutes to walk between them at an easy pace.
Barnafoss seen from the footbridge, with the paths leading back towards Hraunfossar.
Getting There From the Golden Circle via Kaldidalur
In summer, you can drive from Þingvellir to Hraunfossar over Kaldidalur, a high gravel road between the Þórisjökull and Ok glaciers. Signed as Route 550, it is not an F-road and has no unbridged river crossings, but it is a rough mountain track that usually opens only in summer.
The Kaldidalur road crossing the bare highland between Þingvellir and the Borgarfjörður valley.
Some rental companies forbid two-wheel-drive cars on it, so check your contract first. Before setting out, look at the umferdin.is road status map to make sure the road is open, as it can close after snow even in early summer.
Hraunfossar and the Silver Circle
The Silver Circle is a loop of sights in West Iceland that has grown up as a counterpart to the Golden Circle. Hraunfossar and Barnafoss are its best-known stops. The loop also takes in Deildartunguhver, Europe's most powerful hot spring, and the historic village of Reykholt.
At Snorri Sturluson's Reykholt, the medieval writer's old bathing pool and a museum about his life sit beside the church. Further east, the Húsafell area is the starting point for trips to the Víðgelmir lava cave and onto the glacier.
Hraunfossar on a summer morning, with the falls lit by sun and the Hvítá running past.
Golden Circle vs Silver Circle
The Golden Circle is closer to Reykjavík and has the bigger names: Þingvellir, Geysir and Gullfoss. The Silver Circle is quieter, with fewer coaches and more space. Its sights lean towards lava, hot springs and saga history rather than big set-piece waterfalls.
If you have one day, do the Golden Circle. If you have two, or are driving north towards Snæfellsnes or the Ring Road, the Silver Circle is a rewarding addition.
Best Time to Visit Hraunfossar
Hraunfossar is open all year and looks different in every season. Summer brings green birch scrub and long evenings, autumn turns the trees gold and red, and winter adds snow and ice to the lava without stopping the falls.
The falls and the Hvítá river from the paths above, with birch scrub growing on the lava.
In winter, the paved roads from Borgarnes are usually open, but Kaldidalur is closed. Paths can be icy, so bring ice cleats, and check the Icelandic Met Office forecast before driving west in bad weather.
Combining Hraunfossar With Other Sights
A day in West Iceland can easily take in Hraunfossar, Barnafoss, Reykholt and Deildartunguhver. Finish with a soak at a nearby geothermal bath. If you are driving north on the Ring Road or heading to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, the falls make a good detour on the way.
Our guide to a road trip to Snæfellsnes covers the peninsula beyond Borgarnes.
Barnafoss in late spring, with snow still lying on the lava beside the gorge.
For waterfalls elsewhere in the country, our round-up of Iceland's other big waterfalls is a good next read.
Glaciers Near Hraunfossar
The glaciers that feed Hraunfossar are close by. Langjökull, Iceland's second-largest ice cap, rises to the east and can be reached from both the Golden Circle and the Húsafell side. Our page on the Langjökull ice cap covers how to visit it, including snowmobile trips on the ice.
Seeing the Golden Circle and Beyond
If you want to add a taste of the west to a Golden Circle day without driving yourself, a private tour gives you the flexibility to try. Book a private Golden Circle day with your own guide and vehicle, and ask whether your date and the summer road conditions allow a detour towards Kaldidalur and the Silver Circle.
Compare Golden Circle Tours
Check each selected product for its current operator, guide, itinerary, meeting point, and terms.
View Our Tours
