The drive north from Gullfoss runs across a grey, flat plateau for what feels like hours. Then a cluster of mountains appears on the horizon, streaked with snow and glowing orange in the sun.
Climb into them and the colours get stranger. Slopes of yellow, red and cream clay fall into valleys full of steam, and streams run hot and cold side by side.
This is Kerlingarfjöll, one of the most spectacular hiking areas in Iceland's highlands. It is a summer trip and a long way from Reykjavík. But for anyone with a 4x4 and a day to spare beyond Gullfoss, it is hard to beat.
What Is Kerlingarfjöll?
Kerlingarfjöll is a mountain range in the central highlands of Iceland, east of the Kjölur road between the Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers. It is an old volcanic system, and its peaks are made largely of rhyolite. This pale volcanic rock weathers into shades of orange, red, yellow and green.
A trail winding through the rhyolite hills of Kerlingarfjöll. Photo: Syrio, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
The highest peaks rise to almost 1,500 metres. Between them lie valleys of hot springs and fumaroles, the most famous of which is Hveradalir.
What Does Kerlingarfjöll Mean?
The name means "the old woman's mountains". According to legend, a troll woman was caught out by the sunrise while travelling here and turned to stone. A dark rock pillar in the range is said to be her.
Hveradalir: The Hot Spring Valleys
Hveradalir means "hot spring valleys", and it is the reason most people come to Kerlingarfjöll. It is one of the largest geothermal areas in the highlands. Steam rises from dozens of vents and boiling mud pots, set against bright clay slopes.
Boardwalks, steps and footbridges lead down into the main valley from a car park on the rim. You can walk the main loop in an hour or two. Wear boots with grip, as the paths are steep and the clay can be slippery after rain.
A fumarole steaming at the foot of the clay slopes in Hveradalir.
The ground away from the paths is often thin, hot and unstable. Stay on the marked trails at all times, both for your safety and to protect the fragile surface.
Best Hikes in Kerlingarfjöll
Kerlingarfjöll has a network of marked trails, from short walks around the geothermal valleys to full-day mountain hikes. Here are the main options.
- *Hveradalir loop:* the classic walk, around the main hot spring valley on boardwalks and paths. One to two hours.
- *Hike from Highland Base:* a longer walk from the accommodation up to Hveradalir, through valleys and over ridges. Allow a few hours return.
- *Summit hikes:* routes up the higher peaks such as Snækollur give views of Langjökull and Hofsjökull. On clear days you can see across much of the highlands. These are full-day mountain hikes for experienced walkers.
- *Multi-day routes:* longer treks through the range take several days, with nights in huts or tents.
Snowfields and steaming springs in a valley among the Kerlingarfjöll peaks.
Weather in the highlands changes fast, and fog can roll in within minutes. Carry a map or GPS track, warm layers and waterproofs, and register your trip with SafeTravel before longer hikes.
How to Get to Kerlingarfjöll
Kerlingarfjöll is reached from the Kjölur road (Route 35), which runs north from Gullfoss, the gateway to Kjölur. After crossing the plateau, turn east onto the F347, which leads into the mountains.
Kerlingarfjöll rising from the Kjölur plateau, seen from the road north of Gullfoss.
According to Highland Base's travel page, the drive from Reykjavík covers about 200 kilometres. It takes around three and a half hours in normal summer conditions.
Do You Need a 4x4?
The F347 is an F-road, and Icelandic rental contracts allow F-roads only in 4x4 vehicles. Much of Kjölur is rough gravel too. Plan for a 4x4 and a slow drive, and fill up with fuel at Geysir before you leave the Golden Circle.
When Can You Visit Kerlingarfjöll?
The highland roads usually open in late June and close in September or early October, depending on snow. Outside that season, the roads are not serviced, and the area can be reached only by super jeep. Check umferdin.is for highland roads before you go.
Where to Stay in Kerlingarfjöll
Highland Base is the main place to stay in the range. It offers a hotel, lodges, simple huts and a campsite. There is also a restaurant, and geothermal baths for soaking after a hike.
The A-frame huts at Kerlingarfjöll, set on a slope above the river valley
For decades the area was home to a summer ski school, and some of the old A-frame huts remain. Beds fill early in July and August, so book well ahead.
Kerlingarfjöll and Hveravellir
Kerlingarfjöll and Hveravellir both lie off the Kjölur road, and many travellers visit them on the same trip. Hveravellir, further north, has a natural hot pool and a famous outlaw story. Kerlingarfjöll has the bigger mountains and the better hiking.
A river winding through a steaming valley inside the Kerlingarfjöll range
With an overnight stay, you can see both and cross the highlands from south to north.
Is Kerlingarfjöll Worth It?
For hikers, yes. Few places in Iceland combine mountain walking and geothermal scenery in quite the same way, and the colours are extraordinary on a clear day.
The view across Hveradalir towards the higher peaks, with steam rising from the valley floor.
As a day trip from Reykjavík, though, it is long: seven hours of driving for a few hours on the trails. An overnight stay at Highland Base makes far more sense.
For gentler walks closer to Reykjavík, our list of Golden Circle hiking trails has options that do not need a 4x4.
Highland Views From the Golden Circle
If a highland road trip is not practical, you can still see this landscape from the edge. Langjökull rises to the west of Kjölur, and the edge of Langjökull is within reach of the Golden Circle.
Steam vents along a stream in the volcanic heart of Kerlingarfjöll. Photo
Our glacier tours from Gullfoss take you up onto the ice with views across the same plateau.
Guides lead every trip on the ice, so you are never on the glacier alone.
If you are new to the ice, our beginner's guide to glacier hiking explains what to expect.
Compare Golden Circle Tours
Check each selected product for its current operator, guide, itinerary, meeting point, and terms.
View Our Tours
